Rudy's GL1500 Photo Reference Pages          Main Guides Page

1500 Fork Spring Tool      last revised  April 19, 2007

Reference pages are not intended to provide full procedural guides.  They are merely photos and comments, many submitted by others who have contributed them out of interest in helping others see what might help them in the same situations or if they just have interest in the subject matter.  I attempt to regulate what is placed here and may add my own comments but bear in mind these are in no way guaranteed to be tested by me.  Think of them as potential, future, Photo Guides under construction for your reference only.
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This content was graciously contributed by, and posted here with the permission of: exavid
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I thought I'd post a few pictures of my recent fork seal job. Mainly wanted to show how you can make a simple tool out of a couple pieces of wood and some all thread. Similar to one shown by a Officer Keith Crowe of Texas. I just modified the idea to be able to build a tool with fewer parts and one that would keep the fork bolt under control and square to prevent flying away or cross threading. I've rebuilt an 1100 fork with stock springs previously and was able to put the fork bolt back in by hand but the Progressives on my 1500 are a whole 'nother job. The pressure was just too great to get the forks back together by hand and even taking the fork bolt off with that much pressure was scary so I built a tool to handle the job. First a picture of my 1100 and 1500 on the jacks in my shop. BTW the 1500 is sitting solidly and safely on a Harbor Freight bike jack. The 1100 is on one much like the Sears unit.
     

Here's the fork tool ready to go.
     

This picture is the tool set up on the fork tube ready to remove the fork bolt.
     

This picture shows the fork bolt free of the tube and in control under the pressure from the Progressive spring.
     

This last picture shows the spring tension completely released without any danger of flying parts. The installation is just the reverse of the removal and worked quickly and easily. Interestingly enough I found one spring with the close wound end down and the other fork had the close wound up. The job was done by a Honda shop too before I bought the bike I even have the invoice for the work. They are the right way 'round now.

I bored a hole partway through the block that holds the deep well socket so that it could move in an out about half it's length which makes it easier to set up. There's also a hole in the block to pass the 1/2" drive extension through. I put a washer inside the block so that the head of the socket rides on metal instead of wood to prolong the life of the tool.

When putting the bolt back into the fork it's necessary to turn down the two nuts on the all thread evenly to keep things square. As the bolt gets close to being ready to engage it's threads I keep a thumb or finger on the space between the top of the tube and the flange on the bolt. When I turn the all thread nuts and don't feel that gap closing I know it's time to crank on the ratchet handle and screw the bolt into the tube after one last look to make sure it looks straight. If it didn't I'd adjust the two top nuts to square it up before turning the ratchet. Anyway it worked fine and made the job pretty simple and worry free. If you've never taken a fork with Progressive springs apart, be advised the bolt is under a lot of pressure.

I forgot to mention if you make up a jig like this you really have to have a drill press available. That's the only way you can keep the holes parallel and centered. That's critical to keep the bolt from cross threading.
     



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