Rudy's GL1500 Procedure Pages         Main Guides Page

1500 Lower Fairing Removal      last revised March 24, 2006

This is the way I do it, you may have a better way.  I'm open to other opinions, corrections and improvements.
I make no warranties, nor can I account for any misinterpretation or deviations from these steps anyone may make.
Due to varying amounts of light during this procedure, some shots were flash and some were not.  I appoligize for the
clarity of some of these shots.  The points being made in each picture should be visible or may have been highlighted for clarity.


Note: If you wish to raise the bike to a convenient level like I usually do, please see the Jacking Instructions before proceeding.

I usually pull the seat and side panels to avoid damaging the side panels.  If you want to do that, please see that portion of  Jacking Instructions above.

Everything on one side must be done to both sides if you need both sides removed. Only one side is shown here.  If you can't figure out
how to do the other side, I would suggest you occupy your time with something else and let a dealer or mechanic do this for you.

If you have the Baker Wings like I do, start with those.



Remove only the center 8mm acorn nut and bolt to allow the hinge bolt to be removed.



Unscrew the top cap and ease the bolt out while keeping track of all of the washers and spacer positions.
Dont lose track of the washers that are inside the bracket.  An alternate way of removing the Bakers  is
to remove the left and right fairing pockets and unscrewing the two screws to remove the Bakers intact.



I like to use paper coin envelopes for small parts rather than trays because I can write on them and
they store with the part while it is removed.



Ready for storage, complete.



On with the rest... Remove the rear lower fairing screws and plates with a #2 Phillips screwdriver.



Ease the chrome elbow hinged out from the bottom corner, taking care not to break the two fragile
tabs at the top, which are tucked in to the rest of the chrome edging and the hooked tab in the
front bottom of the piece.



The top tabs break easily.  Mine glue with acrylic cement or  airplane cement.  Don't ask how I know.



The bottom front tab is just a hook into the fairing hole made for it.  Your fairing may be radically
different from mine but hey, this fairing is the only example I have.



Here is an area that is different on many bikes but they all use three screws to mount to the top fairing.
Mine are under these glued on beauty caps and attached with a chrome beauty strip.



If you have these, just ease your knife edge just barely under the edge of the cap and pry it off carefully.
This picture shows the knive edge in about twice as far as it should be.



Mine have silicone adhesive in them from the previous owner. 
These normally just snap on and off without adhesive.
Here you can see the thickness of the rim of the cap.  That's how
far the knife edge should be in when lifting the cap off.



Dig it out. foo.  Mine is silicone adhesive filled... hope yours are glue free like like they should be.



Now you can unscrew it.  Mine takes a #2 Pillips.



There are rubber spacers behind the beauty trim and I don't like them coming loose from the screws.
It's like juggling monkeys to get all that lined up later without scratching the crap out of your finish
with the edge of the beauty trim so I made a little mod.  I made rubber retainers for the backs of the
screws with cut halves of  undersized rubber grommets.  Then I forced them on the screws and viola.



Here is one half grommet at the end of a screw for clarity.



Ok, now for the rest of it, the bike tupperware disassembles from the bottom of the bike up.
Pardon the dirty bike, I normally wash this stuff while the parts are off if I plan to remove them.
Sounds good anyway.  There are three #2 phillips head screws to remove the chrome bottom piece.
I can never remember the names of these parts...sorry.  There are also two tabs on the sides where
the chrome piece is supposed to lock into the lower fairing.  After much frustration with these tabs,
mine mysteriously broke off.  I have not missed them since.  They still fit fine and no rattling.



All screws are in the front.  One on each side and one in the middle all, near the bottom.
Here is the right side screw.  Kinda dark...sorry.  You don't flash chrome if you want to see anything.
You can just make out the head to the right of the black square(ish) hole.



Here is the center screw.  REMOVE IT LAST AND REPLACE IT FIRST.



Get someone to help you lift it out so you don't drop it like I did.  Doh!  The wheel gets in the way of
managing the large part.  Especially with a screwdriver in one hand.  You will really need it when
you get to putting it back on.  I used a similar crew retaining trick on these screws as well except
that I use smallish undersized flat  nylon washers that I slit to get them on the screw threads.
Ya, I'm a lazy bastd.



The front center panel is held in only by two plastic tabs that plug into two rubber mounting
grommets, one in each side panel.  You can see the right one here.
The center piece is basically a strap between the two side pieces.  Be sure to CAREFULLY pull
the front piece top right side toward the front wheel while holding back the front of the side piece
to avoid breaking the tab off.



Here is a side view of that panel showing the tab you don't want to break off.



Finally you can now lift each lower faring half off.   Just hinge it out like it hinged from the back of
the fairing to allow the vent duct to get free.



Basically, that side piece was just three screws on the top, one screw at the back bottom and one
grommeted  strapping piece in the front bottom.   Well...plus one wire for the turning lights.



There is a locking tab you need to push down while you slide the fairing light connector apart.



If you want to remove the radiator grill to clean it, you are only two 8mm acorn nuts away.  I always
do this but it is not necessary since the lower fairing is now off.  Like my superbright $15 Wally World
55 watt halogen driving lights?   Yup  $15 but you have to make your own brackets.  If you would like
to see that story, let me know.


Here is a darkish view up in there for the acorn nut.




As usual, reassembly is just disassembly, reversed.
Be careful not to scratch and break stuff (well, except maybe those nasty tabs on the sides of the bottom piece).
It will all fit back together nicely.  Remember that the side running lights fit between the upper fairing and the
lower fairing with the more protruding side at the top.  Tuck the turning light excess wire upward while
closing the gap as you reassemble it.  You will need to hold the side fairing for support as you push against it
with the front piece to get the tab into the grommet again.  Take your time.
Don't forget to clean and wax everyting you have apart before reassembly.  It will never be any cleaner.

Ideas, questions and feedback, please let me know.






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